Recently, there has been a growing interest in treating melasma through home care.
Many people have reached out asking,
"Which ingredients, skincare products, or creams are effective for melasma?"
In this post, I will summarize the analysis of commonly used melasma-focused cosmetics and ampoules,
as well as introduce effective ingredients that can be used at home.
After researching the products that many people are currently using,
I found that popular options include the Mestina ampoule (often referred to as the "Lee Min-kyung ampoule"),
Melanon cream, and vitamin C ampoules.
Analysis of the Mestina Ampoule Ingredients (This is not an advertisement)
The Mestina ampoule contains the following ingredients that are considered effective for melasma:
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Tranexamic Acid 2%
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Niacinamide 5%
「A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% vs Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma（2011）」
According to the above study and many others, niacinamide is generally considered effective at a 4% concentration,
so the 5% used in the Mestina ampoule is regarded as an appropriate and effective amount.
On the other hand, tranexamic acid at 2% is a good concentration,
but it is known to have poor skin penetration when applied topically.
The graph below comes from a study comparing 1% tranexamic acid injections with microneedling-assisted delivery,
and the conclusion was that microneedling (MTS) combined with tranexamic acid produced superior results.
In fact, tranexamic acid is not primarily used as a topical or injectable treatment—
it is more commonly and effectively used as an oral medication for melasma.
According to the following clinical study,
tranexamic acid is considered the most effective active ingredient among oral treatments for melasma:
In other words, because tranexamic acid has very low skin permeability, using it in cream form alone has significant limitations.
Additionally, since it is not a low-cost ingredient, it is better to use it as a supplementary option,
and it is not recommended as a primary treatment for melasma.
Analysis of Melanon Cream Ingredients
Melanon Cream by Dong-A Pharmaceutical is not a general cosmetic,
but rather a prescription-only medical product.
These three ingredients are widely recognized around the world as key components of melasma treatment creams,
and have been proven effective in numerous studies under the name “Kligman's Formula.”
In the referenced study, the only combination to receive an A-level efficacy rating was:
Hydroquinone 4% + Tretinoin 0.05% + Steroid (Fluocinolone) 0.01%
This is known as the Modified Kligman's Formula,
and has demonstrated excellent results with topical application alone.
Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C ampoules have long been used in melasma care.
However, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) has low skin permeability,
which means that simply applying it topically is not enough to achieve visible results.
To be effective, it should be combined with iontophoresis (electrical delivery) or microneedling (MTS).
In the study referenced above, photos show the combination of topical vitamin C with microneedling,
demonstrating that while vitamin C is helpful,
it is not considered a primary treatment when compared to hydroquinone, tretinoin, or tranexamic acid.
Are there any other ways to treat melasma?
The reason melasma is so difficult to treat is because it is not just a simple pigmentation disorder.
It involves multiple complex mechanisms, such as:
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Angiogenesis (formation of new blood vessels)
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Damage to the dermoepidermal junction
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Increased presence of allergy-related immune cells
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Hyperactivation of melanocytes (pigment-producing cells)
Because of this, a single treatment approach is usually not enough.
A comprehensive treatment plan is necessary, including the following:
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Use of broad-spectrum sunscreen
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Adjunctive creams like Melanon Cream
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Laser or radiofrequency therapies
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Oral medications such as tranexamic acid
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Home care combining microneedling (MTS) with targeted ampoules
✅ Summary in 3 Lines
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Mestina ampoule contains tranexamic acid and niacinamide, both effective for melasma, but due to low skin permeability, it should be used together with MTS home care.
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Melanon Cream is a prescription medication, not a cosmetic, containing clinically proven active ingredients for melasma, and should be used under medical supervision.
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Vitamin C ampoules are not very effective on their own; they require assisted delivery methods like MTS to show significant results.
I hope this information is helpful for many of you.
If you have any questions about treatment, feel free to leave a “like” or a comment—
I’ll personally respond with care.
Thank you for reading.
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📍 Primi Clinic
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